Christmas in Goodhope

CHRISTMAS IN GOODHOPE

            Being away from home on Christmas was something we were approached with some apprehension.  It is a holiday that we always celebrated with our family and with our friends in Manchester.  As is typical of New England, we decorated our home with a live balsam tree and ornaments collected over the years.  We placed lights in the windows, wreaths on the doors and Christmas knick-knacks all over the house.  Snow would usually make an appearance, adding atmosphere to the festivities.

            It couldn’t be more different in Goodhope.  First of all, December 25^th occurs just after the summer solstice.  With at least some rain under our belts, the grassland is green and the scattered thorn trees are full of leaves.  Most days are (at least in part) hot and brilliantly sunny.  Second, there is not nearly enough to remind us of the season.  There are advertising circulars enclosed in newspapers urging people to buy furniture and electronics for “the festive season” as it is called here.  Some stores sport tinsel and plastic tree decorations.  But that is about it.

            There is no Christmas tree tradition here (not surprisingly) and apparently no practice of exchanging gifts or holding parties.  Children are home on summer break, and parents often take vacation days at this time of year.  Like Europe, Botswana observes the day after Christmas and the day after New Year’s as additional holidays.

            We thought that at least in church there would be some signs of the season.  Last Sunday’s gospel was traditional Advent stuff: the angel visiting Mary and Elizabeth.  But nowhere in sight was an Advent wreath, manger scene, garlands or poinsettias.  We don’t know enough Setswana to determine if the hymns were seasonal, but it didn’t seem like it.

            That didn’t stop us.  Stephanie cut small branches off of a nearby thorn tree that has fir-like leaves.  She arranged the branches in a large teapot, and then decorated them with improvised ornaments.  I cut out paper snowflakes to add to the effect.  We displayed the tree on our coffee table.  We also bought two small plastic garlands to hang on the wall.

            On December 23rd, one of our fellow volunteers came to stay with us for two nights.  She brought precious gifts: Parmesan cheese from Gaborone and videos to watch.  We were joined on Christmas Eve day by two more volunteers who stopped by.  We shared good food and conversation.   Christmas Eve, we watched White Christmas on our friend’s laptop.  On Christmas morning, we opened presents: Stephanie received a box in the mail from her friend.  It contained many magazines and, even better, Reese’s pieces.    

            That is not to say that we were devoid of contact from family and friends.  Some emails found their way to us in the days before Christmas.  Our daughter and son called us several times.  On Christmas Eve, they attended the annual neighborhood get together.  Our son read a message that Stephanie had written for the group.  Our daughter video recorded the occasion and sent it along to us.  On Christmas day, they exchanged gifts at our daughter’s place, then traveled to my brother’s place for dinner.  

            We did attend one traditional Botswana Christmas afternoon event in Goodhope.  As in the rest of Botswana, community choirs perform outdoors in a sort of competition that day.  Each choir has maybe 50 members.  They wear matching outfits (matching polo shirts and pants, for instance).  They harmonize many songs a capella and perform dancing or swaying routines as they sing.  A few of the songs are religious (but not Christmas oriented).  Most are traditional Setswana tunes with lyrics that talk about farming and marriage and other day-to-day topics.  The quality of the singing was excellent.  Friends and family come to watch, and it becomes are lively affair.  We understand that these choirs perform again on New Year’s Day, and we will be out to watch again.