INTERNET: FROM YOUR HOUSE TO OURS
Ever since our arrival in
Botswana more than six months ago, one of our goals has been to stay connected
to our family and friends back home. The
prepaid cell phones we received upon arrival came with SIM cards from a network
with no inexpensive way to call the United States. During our two months of training in Kanye,
our children tried to figure out bargain ways for them to call or SMS (i.e.
text) us. Because of the six to seven hour time difference (Botswana does not
switch to and from Daylight Time) and our busy schedules, our calls and texts
were few and far between.
Then there
is the matter of internet access. While
we came to Africa with laptops and a shared iPad, we were not sure what to
expect. Certainly our host family in
Kanye had no internet connection. We
availed ourselves of one of the local internet cafes from time to time. We were warned about programs loaded onto
some public computers that could record password information. So, when we could, maybe every other Sunday
afternoon, we hauled our laptops to those internet cafes that would allow us to
connect our computers directly to the internet via an Ethernet cable. The connection was often slow. Wi-Fi did not seem to be available.
Most of the
volunteers in our group are in their 20’s, and most are much more dependent
upon computers (i.e. Facebook, Twitter, etc.) than the two of us. Still, the lack of computer access was a
challenge for all of us. I think that
Peace Corps had at least two reasons for us to live largely without computers
during training: to force us to spend concentrated time learning about a new
culture, and to make us appreciate more how people live today without internet
access.
I do not
want to leave the impression that Botswana, or the rest of Africa, is devoid of
the many advances in computer technology over the past thirty years. Far from it.
In some ways, Africa leads the world in the use of mobile
technology. I get a text on my phone
every time I use my debit card at the supermarket. I can transfer airtime and money credits from
one mobile device to another. I buy
prepaid electricity credits from a neighbor who owns a special hand held
device. He takes my money and prints out
a receipt with a 16-digit code. I enter
that code onto a keyboard on the “smart meter” installed in my kitchen. The screen on the meter acknowledges the
code, and then displays how many kilowatt-hours of electricity credit I just
bought. Over the next few weeks, I can watch
the kwh’s decline with use, and the meter even emits small red flashes when an
appliance is using heavier amounts of electricity.
Back to the
internet. We did not want to make
long-term plans for internet access until we learned of our placement. For instance, if we were to live in a village
without electrical or telephone lines, then certain solutions would not
work. There are three mobile telephone
companies doing business in Botswana, and each company’s coverage varies
somewhat. We would not want to make a
commitment to one company if its signal did not reach our home.
We ended up
getting placed in Goodhope, a village of 6000 about 90km from the nearest large
town, Lobatse. That might not sound
promising for any sort of internet connectivity. But we got lucky. About fifteen years ago, Goodhope became the
host to a number of regional government offices. Botswana is divided into ten districts
(similar to states or provinces), and some of those districts in turn are
divided into two or more sub-districts.
We are part of the sprawling Southern District, and the Goodhope
sub-district offices serve its sub-region with a variety of offices: land
registry, public health, agriculture, planning, public works, education, etc.
Then there is the five-year-old Goodhope Senior Secondary School (Stephanie’s
work base), a massive boarding school housing 2400 students. All of these institutions all need internet connectivity.
This means
that mobile phone service is excellent in Goodhope from all three
companies. The landline telephone
company even has a regional office here.
We considered our options. We
could get a small device, an external modem, which fits into the USB slot of a
laptop. A SIM card slides into the
modem, and then the computer has internet access over the selected mobile phone
network, just like a smart phone in the United States. As in America, the mobile phone companies
advertise 3G speed over their networks (4G is not an option here). Unfortunately, the reality is that in places
like Goodhope, the speed ends up being more like 2G. We also talked with a more experienced
volunteer about another option: DSL (called ADSL here). It is available in some locations, but not all. Its speeds are faster and more reliable than
3G, and in some cases may be fast enough to download videos. It is more expensive than 3G, but we were
told it is well worth it.
So, about a
week after we arrived in Goodhope in November, I began my quest for DSL. The sign outside the local telephone company
building said that it had customer service hours one day a week: on
Wednesdays. So the following Wednesday,
I trudged the 30 minute dusty walk to the office, only to find it was closed up
tight. I did some other errands and came
back later but the office was still closed.
The place looked more like a switching center with some telephone poles in
the lot – it did not look much like a customer service place.
So, on
November 30, I took a combi to Lobatse (usually about an hour’s trip). I visited the telephone company office there
and told the representative that I wanted to get DSL for my home in
Goodhope. There was an application form
in front of her, and I took one to fill out.
She told me that I couldn’t fill it out, at least not yet, that I had to
apply first for a regular telephone line.
She said that a technician would come to my neighborhood and determine
whether telephone and DSL service was possible.
Since our village has no street names, let alone house numbers, it is
difficult to locate houses. The
application asked for our plot number, which I did not know. I did the best I could giving directions.
Then I
began to wait anxiously. I felt that
perhaps the process would speed up if I could locate my plot number. I could not talk with my landlord about it
(that’s a whole ‘nother story), so I traveled one day to the Land Board
office. In Botswana, every citizen is
entitled to several free plots of land: one for cattle, one for planting crops,
and one for building a house. In a country
almost the size of Texas and with only 2 million people, there is a lot of land
to go around. The Land Board administers
a very rigorous application process for land seekers. The Board is a combination of a planning
office, a land court and a deed registry.
I walked into the office and asked for help to determine my plot number. Apparently copies of deeds are not publicly
available, but I was directed to the survey group. A helpful trio of young men got out a survey
plan of my neighborhood, and we were able to determine that my house plot was
one of about two or three lots. Since
Goodhope is now a sub-district center, the village has been subdivided into
many lots, but most of them remain undeveloped.
Hence it is hard to determine from a survey exactly which plot is
mine. Undaunted, the survey crew
announced that they would visit our house the next morning to determine the
exact plot number. And the next morning
they arrived in an SUV: a driver, two surveyors and an assistant. Armed with a survey plan, they quickly found
some nearby concrete bounds and determined our plot number.
By the
second week of December, I hadn’t heard from the telephone company. I decided to take a combi into Lobatse to
check up on things. I thought that
having my plot number might speed things up.
At the customer service office, I met with the same lady as I had
before. I told her that I now had a plot
number to add to my phone service application. She said that it really wasn’t
necessary. I asked when a technician would come to my house to determine
feasibility for DSL. She said that is
would happen soon.
Nothing
happened soon, but something did eventually happen. On December 20th, when Stephanie
and I were at the other end of town meeting with the agricultural extension
officer (part of our get to know the community assignment), Stephanie got a
phone call from the telephone company: an engineer was in his car heading
toward our house. He would be there in
20 minutes. I immediately excused myself
and ran home -- in the heat. There was
no way we wanted to miss any opportunity to get DSL. Sure enough, the engineer arrived at the
landmark my application had set out for him, and I pointed out our nearby
house. He told me that he would scout
out telephone lines in the vicinity and get back to me. About 20 minutes later, he came back with the
good news: there was good enough telephone connectivity nearby to enable
DSL. He said that he would report back
to the office in Lobatse, and then I would get a call to come into the office,
fill out an application, and pay a deposit.
That began
another waiting period. December passed
into January, and January into February, without a call form the phone
company. We were busy with other
projects, so I did not have the time to follow-up. Only in mid-February did I get around to
calling customer service. A very nice
lady told me, after checking my file, that in fact I could go in and pay my
deposit.
Late in
February, I took a combi to Lobatse, paid a 200 Pula deposit ($25) and filled
out a DSL application. Then, a week
later while at work, Stephanie got a call that an installation crew was on its
way. She called me to get home ASAP (my
school is much closer to home than hers).
I was in the middle of teaching a math class, so I couldn’t leave just
yet. When the bell rang, I bolted out of
the classroom and ran home. I arrived
just as not one, but two trucks, each with a crew or workers, arrived at my
house. The foreman greeted me, and then
looked toward the horizon in all directions, searching for telephone
wires. He announced that there were no
telephone lines nearby and that we were not eligible to get DSL service because
they do not install new telephone poles for that purpose. I protested that there were electrical poles
right up to my house, but he answered that the telephone company does not share
with the electric utility (which turns out not to be really the case). I said that someone from the telephone
company had come out in December and verified our eligibility, and that I had
paid my deposit just a week prior.
Telling the
man that I had paid the deposit did the trick.
He said, “well, since you have paid a deposit, I guess we’ll have to
make an exception.” So, the next thing I
know, I am inside the house guiding one work crew. They quickly wire the house for a telephone
line, running it out through an air vent, under the soffit, over the roof drip
edge and up to the roof peak. The other
crew took off somewhere. I had to go
back to teach another class. When I
returned about an hour later, the second crew had returned. In the midday sun, one worker was digging a
hole in the ground just outside our gate.
He was using just a spade. He was
down almost a meter by the time I caught up with him. He quickly finished that hole, and then moved
on to start another one, maybe 80 meters away.
I wanted to continue watching this amazing feat, but I had to go back to
school for a meeting. When I returned,
two hours later, I found two telephone poles in place where the holes had been
dug. A wire stretched from my house, hooked
to the new poles, and connected to a preexisting telephone wire maybe 150
meters away. [See the attached photo
showing the edge of our grass-free yard, with the first new pole in the left foreground,
the second new pole behind it slightly to the right and the third
(pre-existing) pole in the background, center.]
Stephanie had come home somewhere during the installation to share in
the excitement. When I returned, she was
watching some workers finish up with the installation of our wireless router
and landline telephone. The router
configured instantly to our laptops, and then we had fast DSL internet
service. In our home. At last.
We
celebrated that evening by checking up on internet sites we had not visited for
six months. We made a list of apps that
we wanted to download. We made plans for
Facetime calls with our children. It was
great.
Two days
later, we got hit with a bad electrical storm.
It threw the main circuit breaker in our house. There was a power surge and, yes, it fried
out new internet router. Without going
into details, the telephone company rep came out the next business day with a
loaner, and the day after that, with a replacement router. We are happy as can be. We can make Facetime calls. We surf the internet And there is an added bonus:
calls to our new landline phone from America are cheaper than to our cell
phone.
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New Telephone Poles: Our Gateway to the World |